I now have two weeks of Ulpan (pronounced ool’pahn, intensive Hebrew study) under my belt. I still can’t speak Hebrew but I have a small list of words at my command that I can use incorrectly in almost any situation. My language school, Ulpan Morasha, is on Shivtei Israel, a street that runs north from Yaffo Street near the Jaffa Gate and the old city. Classes begin at 8:30 AM Sunday through Thursday. We get 30 minutes off at 10:30 then back to class until 12:45. This beginners’ class will last, if I can make it, 5 months. The school is about 200 yards beyond the marker shown immediately below, just across from a former prison. This is no accident.